茶笔 Chá Bǐ – The Tea Pen

Author: Char Hu

  • Shī Fēng Lóng Jǐng Lǜ Chá, 狮峰龙井绿茶, Lion Peak Dragon Well Green Tea

    Spring 2023; C. sinensis var. Longjing #43; Wenjiashan Village, West Lake, Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province; 330m, bud and one leaf, green tea process; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    The dry leaves are pale green with a yellow cast, flat and brittle, with a sweet, biscuity, & candy scent, with a hint of sherbet lollies. The wet leaves are mottled yellow to green colour with spongy bounce, and smell of canned green peas, or cooked green vegetables. 3-4g of dried leaf was infused in 150ml of RO water for 30sec. @80°C. 

    The tea liquor is a very pale yellow colour, buttery and has a slightly vegetal scent. In the mouth it is initially light, and watery, becoming moderately viscous without any cloying stickiness. It is stimulating, mouthwatering, and astringent, followed by a lingering minerality. In general, its taste is fresh, stimulating, creamy and light, peppery and mildly bitter, with a fresh, stimulating, sweet vegetable,and menthol-like finish.

    This tea was sourced direct from the tea farm and makers in Wenjiashan, Hangzhou. They told me that there are 3 Longjing varietals, Old Leaf, #47, and #43. #43 is a newer varietal that has been developed to create a softer, milder, sweeter tea experience in the cup. 

    Over the past few years, I have sampled several versions of Long Jing Tea, including another from the Shi Feng region. Looking back over my tasting notes I am now starting to see, and taste, what might be attributable to, “terror” in the cup. (correction: “terroir…” 😜 )

  • Huáng Jīn Yá Lǜ Chá, 黃金芽绿茶, Golden Bud Green Tea

    C. sinensis var. “Huang Jin Ya”; Anji County, Huzhou City, Zhejiang Province, 600-1000m, Spring 2021 (early spring pluck), one bud & two leaves, green tea process. #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    The tea’s dry leaves are flat and pressed, with a khaki yellow color, and they smell light, dusty, and vegetal with a hint of licorice. When wet, the leaves appear soft, supple, and have a pale, yellow color. The wet leaves also have a vegetal scent that reminiscent of boiled corn or cooked greens. 3g of tea was infused in 120ml of water at 80°C for 10-20 sec. The tea liquor has a light, slightly floral, cotton candy sweet scent and a pale, yellow, glossy appearance. It’s slightly oily shimmer also adds to its beauty. In the mouth, the tea is stimulating, creamy, somewhat viscous, with a mild bitterness. After several cups there is a late onset of astringency followed by a pleasant, lingering, palate-cleansing sweetness.

  • Dòu Kòu Bō Sī Hóng Chá豆蔻波斯红茶, Persian Black Tea with Cardamom

    C. sinensis var. sinensis, April-October, 2022?; Alborz Mountains, Gilan Province, Iran; 500-1500m, bud and 2-3 (young) leaves, Black tea process; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    This Tea is grown in the north of Iran, close to the Caspian Sea, along the Alborz mountain range. It is a black tea that is brewed with 2 to 3 pods of green cardamom, and kept warm on the top of a samovar. I should mention that the tea is not stored with cardamom, but rather the grenn cardamom pods are first lightly crushed and then added to the tea pot to steep with the black tea leaves.

    This is the first time I tried this tea. It was quite tasty, and reminded me a little of Earl Grey, but without the heady floral note. All the scent comes from the cardamom. It is typically served in various ways. In this case it was served with some dried dates. The mild sweetness of the dates balanced well the astringency and slight bitterness of the Tea. It is well worth trying.

    As I passed by this market vendor, who was also hawking saffron and dried fruits, I was immediately entranced by his red tea pot. Farhad the vendor, told me that this pot was quite old and the image on the side is of Naser al-Din Shah Qajar, who was the fourth Shah of Qajar, Iran. The pot is apparently around 100 years old. When I took a closer look at it, it certainly showed time honoured ware and tear, and been looked after well.

  • Tāng Pǔ Sēn Wú Kā Fēi Yīn Hóng Chá, 汤普森无咖啡因红茶, Thompson’s Decaf Tea

    Spring 2020, blended and packaged February 2021;C. sinensis var. assamica, Second Flush; possibly from Borengajuli, Hajua, Bukhial Tea Estates, Assam, India, blended and packaged in Belfast, Ireland; 90-120m, second flush pekoe fannings(?) CTC black tea process, CO2 decaffeination(?) 2g of tea dust in 0.6g paper teabag; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    The dry leaves smell mildly dusty with a hint of sweet apple while when wet they have a stewed vegetal aroma.

    Single infusion of 2g in 180ml for 15-20sec. @100°C. The tea liquor has a rich copper colour with a golden meniscus tinge, and almost no noticeable aroma with an ever so slight hint of biscuit.

    It has a moderate to watery viscosity, astringent, coupled with late tingling sensations on the tongue. The taste is slightly woody, with a dry earthy pepperiness, a hint of nuttiness, and a notable but not unpleasant tannic note.

    Opinion:  This tea is described as a Decaf Blend which has succeeded in retaining it’s taste and flavour, despite the decaffeination process. It was apparently awarded, ‘Two Gold Stars’ in 2018 by the Guild of Fine Foods for its taste. This is not a tea for quiet contemplation. Rather, it is  probably best described as elegantly robust and suited for Afternoon Tea in a bright and busy environment where the focus is not the tea, per se. It neither assails with its character nor inspires, rather it is discretely supportive and understated in it, “Yes, I’m still here, and I’m here for you.”

  • Dobin Mushi

    #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    When I first came to Shanghai in 2003, Gintai Teppanyaki was an all you could eat and drink Teppanyaki Bar just off Nanjing West Road in Jing’an. After a while a couple of sub branches opened up due to its popularity and value for money. So good was the value that in 2004 they increased the price and introduced a food waste tax of 20% if you didn’t eat all that you ordered – Brilliant move, I still support the idea to this day.

    One of my all time favourite dishes to order was Matsutaki Dobin Mushi. I couldn’t get enough of it. At first I didn’t know you were supposed to also eat the ingredients inside the pot. 

    But I learned along the way, and now I have my own ready to make Dobin Mushi Soup kits.

    The kit consists of freeze dried Matsutaki, with scallop, prawns, carrots, coriander and parsley (the combo is supposed to resemble the Japanese herb, Mitsuba) in a vacuum packed freezer storage bag; a spice bag containing equal amounts by weight of Kombu seaweed and Bonito Flakes; and a wet sachet of Sake and Light Soy Sauce: to be added to 250ml of water.


    Defrost the frozen ingredients; Boil the water; add the spice bag and simmer for 5-10 min; remove the spice bag but don’t squeeze it; add the frozen ingredients except the herbs, and simmer of 5 min; place the hers and the wet sachet into a warmed tea kettle; when the seafood is ready, add to the pot and top up with the stock. Serve, ideally, with a wedge of your citrus of choice, yuzu is recommended.

    If not serving with other dishes, consider accompanying it with pure Matcha Green Tea. (but not that sugary sweetened muck I reviewed a short while ago.) 

    There you have it, Dobin Mushi for One! Enjoy.

  • Què Cháo Gōng Sī Qū Pǐn De Xīng Bā Kè Mǒ Chá Ná Tiě, 雀巢公司出品的星巴克抹茶拿铁, Starbucks Matcha Latte by Nestlé Dolce Gusto

    late Spring 2022; C. sinensis var. (unknown); (Possibly from) Aiya Co. Nishio, Aichi, or Wazuka, Kyoto, Japan &/or China; Processed in Vietnam; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    Two capsules (m non-dairy creamer, and tea powder blend) were pressure infused with 80ml water per capsule at 70-80 C.

    The flavour of the Matcha is lost, in the milk and the sugar which dominates the drink. The mouthfeel is sticky and cloying, underpinned by a powdery sensation from the Tea.

    Not a fan, not by any tick of the clock. (Tickety-tock!)

  • Què Cháo Dolce Gusto Uji Mǒ Chá Lǜ Chá, 雀巢 Dolce Gusto Uji 抹茶绿茶, Nestlé Dolce Gusto Uji Matcha Green Tea

    Spring 2022; C. sinensis var. (blend of Uji varietals); Uji, Kyoto, Japan; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    Pressure infused tea powder with 80ml of water at 70-80C.

    The tea liquor is a murky, but vibrant dark green colour with a thick, pale green creama on top. 

    In the mouth, it is powdery, thick, viscous, and it tastes slightly bitter, floury, grassy, and has a long – loooong, lingering, slightly sweet, nutty, vegetal aftertaste. Strong and Assertive.

  • Dà Jīn Zhēng Hóng Chá, 大金针红茶, Big Golden Needle Black Tea

    Spring 2020; var. 凤九 Féng Jiǔ (Phoenix No. 9); Lincang, Fengqing, Yunnan; bud only; 1600-1900m; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    The aroma of the dry leaves is malty, spicy, aromatic; whilst with leaves are slightly smokey, acrid , spicy, cinnamon, cooked apple, spiced pear and mild suggestive of Brettanomyses;

    I infused 3-4g of golden buds, in 180ml of water, for 5-10sec.@90-95deg. C.

    The colour of the liquor is bright golden, brassy colour, with faint, subtle spiced pear aroma.

    In the mouth, the sensation is tingling, mouth coating, syrupy, creamy, with a sweet finish; whilst the taste is almost neutral, spicy (sweet spices) and mellow in flavour, with mildly malty and sweet fairy floss finish.

    Opinion: This Tea is very present, with a noticeable, forward palate resplendent in its spicy  freshness, hint of minerality, and sweet finish. Very pleasant.

  • Lǎo Shù Róu Guì Yán Chá, 老树肉桂岩茶岩茶, Old Tree “Rou Gui” Rock Tea

    C. sinensis var. rou gui (cinnamon bark); Wuyishan, Nanping, Fujian Province; approx. 550-650m; Late Spring, 2022; 3-4 Leaves; Oolong Tea Process; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    The appearance of the dry leaf is long listed, moderately straight, black to charcoal grey in colour with reddish brown tints. The dry leaves have an aroma suggestive of  Chocolate, plum, sweet charcoal, undefined spice. In comparison, when wet the leaves are mostly whole leaf with a few broken pieces. They appear to be a deep, dark brown colour with olive green tinge and retain their dry leaf, twisted appearance, and have an aroma that hints of smoke, charcoal, tobacco, followed by a sharp, green vegetal scent.

    I infused 8g of dry leaf in 180ml od water for 2-3sec. @100deg. C plus 10 sec. pour into the Fairness Cup.The liquor colour was Orange,mand the aroma was Smoky, woody, like a damp campfire and Mildly acrid.

    In the mouth it was thick, syrupy, creamy, suggestive of white melon, mildly dry, dusty, metallic, with a watery clean finish, stimulating, tingling, biting, and spicy, with retronasal, musty, floral fresh, hints and a lingering after taste hinting of woodiness with a vague hint of sweetness and pleasant minerality.  Its taste has hints of chocolate, a touch of malt, stone fruit, and a late suggestion of raw sugar cane juice.

    When I was a kid, we used to pull up long stems of grass that had gone to seed, and then just chew on the white growth end that was that the bottom, this tea is kinda like that, it has that kind of sweetness. It also pairs well with fresh baby tangerines, and Russian Cinnamon-Walnut Bread.

  • Huáng Jīn Bái Lù (Chuān Hóng Chá), 黄金白露(川红茶), Golden White Dew (Chuanhong Tea) Chuan Hong Black Tea

    C.sinensis var. zaobaijian; Spring (before Qingming) & Autumn (after Bailu), 2020; Xingshi Tea Co., Ltd., Julian County, Yibin City, Sichuan Province. 800-1200m; fine, single buds; blend of late Autumn tea with some early spring tea, Chuanhong black tea process. #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    Small golden brown buds, some with darker/black ends with  biscuit, chocolate, caramel, dark stone fruit, white peach aroma.

    The wet leaves are a uniform, vibrant, brown colour, with a cotton candy, light caramel, slightly acrid (like wood-smoke tar) aroma with hints of rose.

    4g of dry leaf (1 sachet) was infused in 100ml of water for 20sec. @90-95deg. C producing a brewed tea liquor that is  copper-red in colour with a soft, sweet, malty, rose, aroma and transient fruitiness. in the mouth it is thick, creamy, mildly astringent, and sweet, whilst the taste is sweet, malty, like milk chocolate, with a rose-like floral scent lingering in the cup.