茶笔 Chá Bǐ – The Tea Pen

Category: Yancha

  • Lǎo Shù Róu Guì Yán Chá, 老树肉桂岩茶岩茶, Old Tree “Rou Gui” Rock Tea

    C. sinensis var. rou gui (cinnamon bark); Wuyishan, Nanping, Fujian Province; approx. 550-650m; Late Spring, 2022; 3-4 Leaves; Oolong Tea Process; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    The appearance of the dry leaf is long listed, moderately straight, black to charcoal grey in colour with reddish brown tints. The dry leaves have an aroma suggestive of  Chocolate, plum, sweet charcoal, undefined spice. In comparison, when wet the leaves are mostly whole leaf with a few broken pieces. They appear to be a deep, dark brown colour with olive green tinge and retain their dry leaf, twisted appearance, and have an aroma that hints of smoke, charcoal, tobacco, followed by a sharp, green vegetal scent.

    I infused 8g of dry leaf in 180ml od water for 2-3sec. @100deg. C plus 10 sec. pour into the Fairness Cup.The liquor colour was Orange,mand the aroma was Smoky, woody, like a damp campfire and Mildly acrid.

    In the mouth it was thick, syrupy, creamy, suggestive of white melon, mildly dry, dusty, metallic, with a watery clean finish, stimulating, tingling, biting, and spicy, with retronasal, musty, floral fresh, hints and a lingering after taste hinting of woodiness with a vague hint of sweetness and pleasant minerality.  Its taste has hints of chocolate, a touch of malt, stone fruit, and a late suggestion of raw sugar cane juice.

    When I was a kid, we used to pull up long stems of grass that had gone to seed, and then just chew on the white growth end that was that the bottom, this tea is kinda like that, it has that kind of sweetness. It also pairs well with fresh baby tangerines, and Russian Cinnamon-Walnut Bread.

  • Dà Hóng Páo Wū Lóng Chá, 道红袍乌龙茶, Big Red Robe Oolong Tea

    C. sinensis “unknown”; Wuyishan, Nanping, Fujian, 2000m; Spring, 2017, leaf only, heavy oxidation, oolong process. #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    The dry leaves are long and twisted with a dark brown colour and the aroma is smokey, and slightly acrid, with a hint of tobacco. The wet leaves are equally dark brownish to black in colour with an ash, moderate charcoal, and wood smoke scent.

    4g of dry leaf was infused in 120ml of water for 20-30 sec.@95-100deg.C., producing a brewed tea liquor that is a dark tan colour, with faint elusive scent.
    In the mouth it is watery, thin, with a gradually thickening viscosity, and mild peppery presence, whilst the taste is mildly malty, and smoky, has a late lingering sweet aftertaste, followed by a mild retronasal floral note.

  • Wǔ Yí Yán Chá, 武夷岩茶, Wuyi Rock Tea

    C. sinensis “unknown blend”; Wuyishan, Nanping, Fujian; Spring, 2020, 2-3 leaves, charcoal roasted, traditional oolong process; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá#Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    The dry leaves are dark brown and ropey, twisted, with a smokey, milk chocolate aroma. The wet leaves in contrast have green hues and a spicy, fresh orchid, sharp, floral shop cut stems, and sweet aroma.

    3.4g of dry leaves were infused in 120ml of water for 20sec.@90-100deg.C., producing a bright orange coloured tea liquor with an aroma similar to the wet leaves.

    In the mouth it has a watery tingling sensation, moderate viscosity, is mouth watering, and stimulating, coupled with a sweet finish, and lingering minerality. The taste is somewhat suggestive of honey, orchid, is fresh green and floral, peppery, and the finish has a subtle drinking chocolate undertones.

  • Dà Hóng Páo Wū Lóng Chá, 道红袍乌龙茶, Big Red Robe Oolong Tea

    C. sinensis “rougui”; Wuyishan, Nanping, Fujian, 2000m; Spring, 2020, leaf only, oxidised, oolong process; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    The dry leaf varies in size and color: dark brown with reddish brown tints; and has a strong note of lemon and apricot. The wet leaf reveals a more smokey character, and has a green colour with reddish edging.

    3g of dry leaf was infused in 150ml of water for 20sec.@95-100deg. C. The pale gold liquor hints at ginger and tastes thin, creamy, spicy and vibrant, leaving a lingering sweet and cinnamon-like aftertaste.

    I’m somewhat confused by this tea. I was told it is a Da Hong Pao yet, from the way it smells, looks and drinks, it just doesn’t seem true to style. Tasty? Yes. Da Hong Pao? I don’t think so.

  • Yán Shàng Wǔ Yí Yán Chá (Dà Hóng Páo), 岩上武夷岩茶(大红袍), Yanshang Wuyi Rock Tea (Big Red Robe)

    A blend of C. sinensis “qidan” & other Wuyi cultivars; Tea Master Liu Guoying, Wuyishan Yanshang Tea Science Research Institute, Wuyishan, Nanping, Fujian, elev. unknown; Spring 2016, zhou kai mian – 3 slightly open leaves, charcoal roasted, traditional tea roasting process; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá#Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    The dry leaves are dark brown and twisted, with a tobacco, and chocolate aroma. The wet leaves darken to a greenish black colour and exude a strong, smokey, spicy aroma with a hint of dark stone fruit and longan.

    5g of dry leaves were infused in 150ml of water for 20-30sec.@100deg. C. The brewed tea liquor is a crystal clear, vibrant ochre colour with a glossy sheen, and has a subtle, woody, spicy, honey-sweet and chocolate-like scent.

    It is syrupy, & viscous, and stimulating, in the mouth with a slightly tart/sour, and astringent finish, leaving a mouthwatering and drying sensation on the tongue. It tastes earthy, mineralish, and smokey, coupled with vague cinnamon and milk chocolate hints, and a lingering, subtle, floral orchid accent in the finish.

  • The Mother Trees of Da Hong Pao

    On the cliffs of Jiu Long Yu, remain the last 6 “Mother Trees” from which Da Hong Pao was once made. Since 2006, the Wuyi City Government banned the private harvesting of leaves from these six trees. in the same year they also insured the trees for the princely sum of 100 Million CNY. To manage demand for tea made from these trees genetics, cuttings were taken and carefully cultivated, leading to the development of the “Qi Dan” cultivar. Since then many more cultivars have been propagated and the tea’s quality is very much related to the terroir of where these tea trees are grown.

    Today, much of the Da Hong Pao Teas, available in the market, are “commodity” teas made from a blend of Rou Gui and/or Shui Xian cultivars as a base, then blended with Qidan and other Wuyi cultivars: such as Tie Luo Han, Huang Guanyin, Qizhong, etc.; depending on each Tea Master’s individual recipe(s). Accordingly, it is said that a Da Hong Pao “blend” should be greater than the sum of its parts, exhibiting layers of complex and pleasing flavours, rather than the singular characteristics of any particular tea tree cultivar.

    The Da Hong Pao mother trees should not be confused with the Four Famous Tea Bushes, “Si Da Ming Cong” which include: Da Hong Pao – Big Red Robe, Shi Jin Gui – Golden Water Turtle, Tie Luo Han – Iron Arhat, and Bai Ji Guan – White Cockscomb; for which many Wuyi Yanchas – Rock Teas, are made from and named.

    #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá#Tea, #茶, #Chá.

  • Dà Hóng Páo Wū Lóng Chá, 大红袍乌龙茶, Big Red Robe Oolong Tea

    C. sinensis ‘unknown’; Zhangzhou Tianfu Tea Co., Panduo Town, Zhangpu County, Zhangzhou City, Fujian Province, elev. unknown; Autumn, 2017, medium oxidation, oolong tea process; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    The dry leaf is elongated, twisted and very darkly oxidised with some reddish-brown (saffron) tints. The aroma is initially strong suggesting cold embers followed by hints of raisin, and chocolate. The wet leaves equally twisted and rigid and do not easily unfurl. Their aroma is woody, earthy, and suggestive of damp charcoal.

    10g of dry leaf was infused in 200ml of water for 15-25sec.@90-100deg. C., producing a brewed tea liquor with a red-ochre colour. Its aroma is slightly acrid, suggestive of burnt pipe tobacco, with subtle butter, and black cardamom hints.

    In the mouth it is moderately syrupy, and stimulating, mouthwatering, with a sweet finish. It has a dominant smokey and mineral character, with vaguely floral aftertaste suggestive of rose, followed by a long, lingering, presence and aftertaste, with a mild spiced chocolate note.

    If I had to pick a tea that was reminiscent of “Russian Caravan” Tea, as I remember it, it would have to be this tea.

    I found out:
    In 1993, Mr. Li Ruihe, President of Tianfu Group , went to Pantuo, and set out to develop the plan to develop tea cultivation. The town planted 8000 acres of high-quality tea trees m. The main tea plant varieties planted were Tieguanyin, Dangui, Taiwan Jinxuan, and Cuiyu.

    In 2000 Tianfu Group established the Tianfu Tea Museum which opened in2002 and is currently the largest Tea Museum in the World.

    Tianfu Tea Museum

    http://www.bytravel.cn/landscape/13/tianfuchabowuyuan.html

  • The Famous Dà Hóng Páo Wū Lóng Chá (大红袍乌龙茶) – ‘Big Red Robe’ Oolong Tea

    On steep, rocky cliffs gracing the sides of Wuyi mountain in the province of Fujian, China live 5 (or 6?) ancient tea trees: the last of their kind. These, “Mother Trees” are apparently, the source of the leaves of the famous Dà Hóng Páo Wū Lóng Chá (大红袍乌龙茶) – ‘Big Red Robe’ Oolong Tea.

    Today, it is no longer allowed to harvest their leaves for tea, however cuttings have been taken and clones cultivated to preserve the genetics of these trees for current and future commercial use. Today, whilst there are teas made from first generation cuttings, which fetch high prices, Da Hong Pao is becoming more a “style” of tea-taste, rather than a tea based on a specific tea tree cultivar. As such finding well crafted, true to style AND taste Da Hong Pao Tea is becoming increasingly difficult.

    Over the following days, I will be moving away from Yunnan Dancong Teas towards my store of Fujian Da Hong Paos. With approx. five different examples on the shelf, the next few days will be an interesting exploration. #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá, #Tea, #茶, #Chá.

  • Jiāng Shān Rú Huà Dà Hóng Páo Wū Lóng Chá, 江山如画大红袍乌龙茶,Picturesque Landscape Big Red Robe Oolong Tea

    Spring, 2021; C. sinensis var. unknown; 2000m, Haoshan Town, Wuyishan, Nanping, Fujian; 2-3 leaves, oolong tea process; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá#Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    The dry leaves are large, dark-brown to black in colour, with a dried hay/straw scent with a touch of smoke, and a hint of chocolate. When wet, the leaves appear uniformly dark with a hint of olive green whilst the aromatic aroma is a touch vegetal, with hints of fresh cut cabbage, allspice, pepper.

    The brewed tea has a clear, golden honey colour with a honey, malt, & Bischoff biscuit scent. It is thick, syrupy, viscous in the mouth with prickling, fresh, mineralish, mouth watering, sensation and sweet finish, and delights with the flavours of malt, honey, hay, and an aftertaste of smoke and carob.

    3.5g of dry leaf was flashed steeped in 150ml of water for less than 10sec. at 90-95deg. C. The pack recommends 6-7g in 180-200ml for less than 6 sec. which is the full contents of a single sachet. This is a rather pleasant tea to drink.

    What is frustrating about this tea is the total lack of information on the packaging. It is a gift set of what seems to be eminently drinkable tea that cannot be traced back to either farm, or producer. Is it true Da Hong Pao? Probably not, and therein lies the rub.

  • Yán Shàng Wǔ Yí Yán Chá (Dà Hóng Páo), 岩上武夷岩茶(大红袍), Yanshang Wuyi Rock Tea (Big Red Robe)

    C. sinensis var. qidan & other wuyi cultivars; Tea Master Liu Guoying, Wuyishan Yanshang Tea Science Research Institute, Wuyishan, Nanping, Fujian; Spring, 2016, slightly open buds with 2-3 leaves, charcoal roasted, traditional tea roasting process; #TodaysTea, #今天的茶, #JīnTiāndeChá#Tea, #茶, #Chá.

    Infusion: 5g in 150ml for 20sec.@100deg. C

    The dry leaves are dark brown and twisted, with a smoke, and chocolate aroma. The wet leaves darken to a greenish black colour and exude a strong, smokey, spicy aroma with a hint of dark stone fruit.

    The tea liquor is a vibrant brown colour with a tint of red, and has a subtle, slighty peppery, spicy, and solvent-like scent.
    It is syrupy, &viscous, with a mild minty tingle, in the mouth with a slightly tart/sour, and astringent finish, leaving a drying sensation on the tongue. It tastes earthy, mineralish, and smokey, coupled with vague cinnamon hints, and a lingering, subtle, dark, floral accent in the finish.

    Opinion: It is interesting to note that this tea was a first release of an experimental variation on a traditional tea roasting process, using a blend of cultivars developed by the Wuyishan Yanshang Tea Research Institute, in Wuyishan, by Tea Master Liu Guoying. For more in-depth explanation of the tea making process, the “Seven Cups” website has a nice writeup. https://sevencups.com/shop/da-hong-pao-big-red-robe/